Kai Kuhne, a native to Bremerhaven, Germany who designs in New York, has managed to blend his dual roles as sophisticated designer and downtown art darling. Kuhne began his career in fashion as a model in Europe in 1995 and eventually found himself creating über conceptual avant-garde pieces with the design group Asfour two years later. The team of four visionaries was a staple of the downtown art scene after a show at Deitch where they crafted mechanical Barbie dolls to model their 2002 collection. The design group lived with one another, sharing a bed in a loft space in Chinatown with Kuhne’s dog, Powder, and four cats. In 2007 Kuhne left the group to create his own label, Myself, which has grown into his signature label, Kai Kuhne.
Kuhne’s most recent collection was inspired by the superstudio architecture movement of 1970’s Italy as well as the Ballet mecanique, a 1920’s Dadaist instrumental performance piece realized through a collaboration between American composer George Antheil and the artist Fernand Léger. Pieces from this collection will be featured on the premier episode of “Double Exposure”, Bravo’s upcoming docu-drama that follows photography team Markus Klinko and Indrani, along with high-end stylist GK Reid.
WW: Your initial introduction to the fashion world was as a model for FORD 12 years ago. The picture on that original comp card portrays you as the re-incarnation of James Dean. Were they on to something? Some say that you are a wild child or a “rebel.”
KK: Well yes, I got me booked. First of all, not everything in the press is true, and I liked to be judged by my work. I don’t think that my creations seem like a “wild child” did them. Actually, quite smart and sophisticated people do enjoy them.
WW: Just because you create something that is enjoyed by sophisticated people doesn’t mean that you are not a wild child. Francis Bacon was insane.
KK: Yes, but he was an artist not a fashion designer. A fashion designer can be an artist, but there are some differences. Artists are allowed to be whatever. I do consider myself to be an artist, and like Bacon I too liked to dress up in women’s clothes when I was a child. I don’t care very much if people try to label me as so, at the same time it does annoy me because it is not how I see myself. But, I would rather be a wild child than a boring concrete flower.
WW: You ended your most recent show in Berlin with the song “We Have Only Just Begun” by the Carpenters – and your did not showing this past September at New York Fashion week – why did you chose that song?
KK: I went into the Berlin show knowing that I would not show during NY fashion week. The musical concept for the show was early nineties house, the bridge between classic old school house and techno-quadrophonia, and 808 state a Bjork protégé. It was pretty hardcore so I wanted a major contrast for the finale. The Carpenters, “We’ve Only Just Begun,” has a soothing sweet beat as well as a tongue in cheek message to the fashion world.
WW: What is different about the fashion world that when you entered it 10 years ago?
KK: WOW, That’s a lot. First of all there are thousands more designers out there. At the same time the global interest in fashion has been pushed. It has exploded. I don’t think that we have had actress/celebrities as fashion designers for major Parisian Houses. We didn’t have shows like Project Runway. There was Gloria Vanderbilt, but she was a society lady not an actress. There has been so much change, but lets start with New York. New York was a wasteland of design and originality when we started and the four of us in ASFOUR kind of shook up the whole scene – and there were few other young and interesting designers trying to do something new and fresh.
WW: Designers and artist have always run in similar circles, what would you say is the current overall relationship between the two trades?
KK: I would say that I am part of the art world somehow. Jeffery Deitch supported me, us, as conceptual artists just as much as fashion designers in the beginning. My designs are much different than back then but the sprit of that is still very much alive. I am very much inspired by what is going on in the contemporary and modern art world. Many successful and original artists in New York are my friends. I think that with the power of places like H&M, ZARA, and Uniqlo, all of which I like, it is harder for a designer to be an artist and there is more pressure to be a “garmento” who conveys concepts. Artist always want to look great, and if you are a great artist wearing unique clothes can only help.
All photos from the Kai Kuhne campaign shoot at the Frank Lloyd Wright Ennis House with photographer team Markus Klinko and Indrani, http://www.markusklinko-indrani.com/. Styling by GK Reid and Jewelry by Patricia Von Musulin http://www.patriciavonmusulin.com.
