Online auction house Saffronart presents jewelry designer Hanut Singh this week in New York. The show at the Fuller building November 4-10 will include close to 50 new hand-made pieces. Singh has gained international recognition since the launch of his line and his necklaces, earrings, and rings have been seen on Cindy Sherman, Beyonce, and Padma Lakshmi. Whitewall spoke to Singh over the phone a few days before opening night.
WHITEWALL: You grew up in a family with an extensive jewelry collection that included items from Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. How did those classic designs influence what you do in your jewelry collection?
HANUT SINGH: I am completely untrained in jewelry design but growing up around these pieces, which were specifically made for my family in the 1910s, the twenties, and thirties when jewelry was at its optimum design-wise, was like the most amazing training as far as proportion, stone, cut, and color. So when you grow up around these masterful pieces it does play into your work.
WW: After going to Hunter College in New York you worked at the Indian editions of Elle and L'Officiel. How did you go from writing to designing jewelry?
HS: My whole design process was completely organic and had nothing to do with my writing and editing. It was just this passion that I had to accomplish. I didn’t know where it was going to take me. So I did my first collection of about 20 pieces based on pearls and shells. I had a little show and it was a sellout and that allowed me to do my next collection and my next collection. It was all about proportions and movement and architectural lines. Even today I still do very pared down, straight lines. It may be elaborate but it’s not fussy feminine jewelry.
WW: Is that why you choose to not work with big, serious diamonds?
HS: I will do that on commission basis. But I don’t for my collection because I want to keep my jewelry at a certain value point so that it’s relatively affordable to buy. I want it to be able to be worn with ease.
WW: Right, you’ve said that your jewelry is for women who already have jewelry.
HS: Yes, they know their jewelry and they know design. It’s not really for a novices; it’s for people who already have jewelry and know their stuff. I don’t do the heavy hardcore pieces so that they can where it all the time, on holiday travel, or out to lunch.
WW: What materials do you keep returning to and why?
HS: I only work with gold, I don’t work with silver or platinum, and I love working with yellow gold. I love working with Cabachon emeralds, beetle wings, and my favorite stone is the Peruvian opal.
WW: Who wears Hanut Singh?
HS: God has blessed me because I have people from 20 years-old to 70 years-old. I have everyone from Beyonce to Cindy Sherman to princesses. It has a throw back to the past but it’s very fresh and modern. It all has happened organically; I’ve not had this ideal plan that I formulated. It’s like with Saffronart, they came and invited me. I didn’t seek them out.
WW: Tell me more about the upcoming show in New York next week with Saffronart. What pieces will be in the show?
HS: I designed 45-50 pieces for the show so this is my latest look. I’ve broken it up into four distinct looks: architectural, Mughaliscious, deco-orient (which is my favorite), and a frunky street line that is very New York.
WW: Did you have New York in mind when you set about designing this collection?
HS: I always have New York in my heart and soul. It’s always in my mind.
WW: In an interview in 2006 you said that you prefer to do exhibitions and trunk shows instead of being constricted by stores. Do you still feel that way?
HS: Yes and no. It’s a double-edged sword. I adore doing trunk shows. Being in a store with jewelry lining the walls is so lonely. The thing with the trunk show is you set up this three-day show, people come, they buy, they appreciate, and then it’s done. You are not tied down by all the obligations that go along with having a store.
WW: Jewelry is very personal; it sits on the skin. How much do you think about that when designing?
HS: A lot. Because I’ve put so much devotion, thought, and pride into it I hope that it’s worthwhile for the person who buys it.
